High-end, stylish bistro in one of the city's most lavish hotels, the San Antonio Plaza.. The Scene
The San Antonio Plaza has embraced the old tradition of fine hotels' gilding their reputation with multiple-star restaurants. Tucked behind the main foyer, Anaqua Grill is comfortable in a mock-hacienda way, yet decidedly upscale, with its Jeeves-like waiters and American-bistro menu featuring expensive, meat-intensive entrees.

The Food
The Plaza's marble interior and lush courtyard are fabulous. However, such Old-World stateliness works less successfully at Anaqua. In a culinary era of bold fusion, the lamb shanks in a sugary mint sauce are unimaginative and, while tender, lack complexity. A recent special of the day, a mixed seafood plate with curry sauce, was more inventive but still fell short flavor-wise. Rising above, the lobster and corn chowder dances across the tongue in a creamy seafood tango, while the feather-light chocolate roulade melts delightfully, preserving the dueling tastes of sweet chocolate and tart cherry sauce.…